Inishbofin

Inishbofin, photo www.traveladventures.org

Inishbofin (or "Boffin"- in Irish, “Inis Bo Finne”- Island of the White Cow) is a magical little 3 x 5km islet with a population of about 180 just off the coast of Cleggan. It was inhabited as far back as 8000-4000 B.C. It is said that Grace O’Malley the famous Pirate Queen (aka Granuaile, aka Gráinne O'Malley, aka Gráinne Mhaol, aka etc., more on her later), had a castle on the island. In fact a 16th century decorated stone was discovered supporting a stone wall outside an island pub that may have came from her castle, according to a Connemara archeologist. It’s said she and a pirate friend would run a chain across the harbor to trap and loot ships holding valuable cargo. In the 18th century the island economy was supplemented by the time-honored traditions of ship wrecking and smuggling. By the 19th century the island was crowded with fishermen (over 1600 people!), with Irish still being spoken until the 1900s. These days it’s home to B&Bs, hotels, restaurants, sheep farms, music sessions, arts festivals, yoga retreats, writing workshops and charity fundraising events. It has beaches with crystal (and very cold) water, lovely wildflowers, a seal colony and rare birdwatching opportunities. 

Photo: The Inishbofin Heritage Museum

There are two places to rent bikes on the island (the main mode of transport) - it takes about 45 minutes to bike around the island. There are five restaurants and four bars on Inishbofin, including a luxury hotel and restaurant called The Dolphin. The Inishbofin Heritage Museum inhabits what used to be the store at the old pier. Its collection is made up of housewares and tools from traditional old island homes, but perhaps even more interesting is the glimpse of old Inishbofin through hundred of photos of bygone island inhabitants.

Photo: Inishbofin Ferry

The thrice-daily ferry from Cleggan pier to Inishbofin (10km away) costs €25 round trip and takes 30 minutes. Bring a jacket- if you want to enjoy the view from the deck it can get brisk! Online booking is recommended. It passes Cromwell's 16th Century Barracks, which housed Catholic clergy after the English Statute of 1655 declared them guilty of high treason. Then they were shipped to the ends of the earth, poor souls. East of this is a crescent-shaped medieval harbor that is only just visible at spring tides.